Shuga's

Shuga's does not fit the wine/espresso bar stereotype in that its food can stand on its own. In fact, Shuga's recipes are a lesson in the art of creating lovely recipes using different, complementary ingredients in unusual, yet logical, ways. No pizzas topped with lettuce and mayonnaise here.

You think you don't like beets? Try the Oliver green salad ($5.50 medium), an "I Don't-Believe-This" blend of mixed young salad greens, walnuts, bleu cheese, the best dang orange vinaigrette you have ever tasted, and . . . beets. I know, I know, I've always said beets taste like the smell of an unused room in an old house, but I have to eat my words, and a lot more, here: This is the most marvelous combination of beet and cheese earthiness, walnut-sharp crunchiness and orange-vinegar-sweet brightness you can imagine.

Frankly, though it is a nice sandwich, it promises more than it delivers. The Brick Press No. 1 ($6.95 whole), however, figuratively hits you in the mouth: salami, prosciutto, goat cheese, artichoke hearts, sweet red peppers, capers, cilantro and basil on a sliced chunk of ciabatta. Ditto the Jacopetti ($6.95 whole) with its salami, prosciutto, tomato, brie, capers and roasted red pepper on French bread.